🚀 go-pugleaf

I've stuck with my Power Straps and a pair of 5.10 combo hiker/climbing
shoes. The shoes have the "stealth" stickie rubber on them which works
VERY well with the pedal for staying put and the P straps work to allow me
to rotate in (same movement as clipless) and yet allow the feet to come
free very easily.  One of these days I'll break down for "real" clipless..
more then likely the Richies.. but for now.. I use what I have.  The one
of these days is when I decide to race more and want every last gram of
power.

Mike

In message <4403qj$lqr@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> - padrino@ix.netcom.com (David Fi
elds ) writes:
:>
:>Okay, here is the deal....   I have beeen a fan of cycling for many
:>years, and have logged my thousands of miles per year in "rat traps"
:>for decades now.  My question is this. What clipless system will give
:>me a safe attatchment to get the power I need, and the sped in release
:>I neeed when riding in heavy traffic?   I require shoes I can still
:>walk in (normally) while not on the bike as well.  I have ben looking
:>into several Mountain specific setups, and have some idea of what might
:>work, but am interested in the input of those who actually use these
:>items and not just sell them while using something altogether
:>different.  Thank you for your time and consideration in helping with
:>this small dillemma.
:>
:>David Fields

I have been using clipless pedals for 8 years.  Until just recently I was an
exclusive LOOK user. On the purchase of a MTB. I elected to  try Onzas
primarily because of the 'float'.   After some 'getting used to' I am
convinced that my choice was a good one.  For shoes, I have purchased  Lake
'MX100'.   Primarily because they look good as a street shoe and have a
recessed cleat for normal.  The sole required no trimming to get good pedal
clearance.

While others may promote on pedal over another (and it is debated here
regularly).  It is most important  (for the knees) that you purchase a pedal
that allows for cleat adjustment and will provide side-to-side float.  Onza's
do that quite well. (6 or 10 degrees)   Shoes:  Almost any with a recessed
SPD compatible cleat should work well. Note that some tread designs will
require additional trimming to provide proper pedal clearance.  I searched a
lot of stores and catalogs before I found  a shoe that offered a reasonable
appearence and provided clearance for walking in cleats. Lake Shoes aren't
widely available but if found are definately worth the search.

+-------------------------------+---------------------------------+
| Cletus Lee                    | Running OS/2 Warp 100% Fat-Free
| Bellaire, TX                  |
|  clee01l@insync.net   (Play)  |
|  clee@pel.com         (Work)  |
+-------------------------------+---------------------------------+

Not all clipless pedals are created equel.  My bike came with the Tioga
clipman. After constant headaches with difficulty getting in and the base
plate coming loose, they broke rather dramatically without crash or
abuse.  I tried a friends Onza's and I did not like them at all, it was
very difficult to get in and the feeling at release, with no warning, was
unnerving. Finally I got a pair of Shimano 747's and LOVE them.
Incrediblly easy in and out, 8 degree's float, and built for abuse.
The only disadvantage is high cost (try the 535's for the same release
but cheaper), sure they're a few grams heavier but my headaches with
other pedals more than made up for the diff.
People with Onza's will say they love their pedals but they probably
haven't tried the new shimano's.

In <4403qj$lqr@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com>, padrino@ix.netcom.com (David Fields ) writes:
>Okay, here is the deal....   I have beeen a fan of cycling for many
>years, and have logged my thousands of miles per year in "rat traps"
>for decades now.  My question is this. What clipless system will give
>me a safe attatchment to get the power I need, and the sped in release
>I neeed when riding in heavy traffic?   I require shoes I can still
>walk in (normally) while not on the bike as well.  I have ben looking
>into several Mountain specific setups, and have some idea of what might
>work, but am interested in the input of those who actually use these
>items and not just sell them while using something altogether
>different.  Thank you for your time and consideration in helping with
>this small dillemma.
>
>David Fields
Dude,
	try spd pedals, with the new
shimano sandals. That should be the ticket!

Folks: a word about net do's and do not's.

Unless it is something of supreme importance, do not cross-post it. It is
wasteful. Post your article somewhere relevant, and if you get no
response, try posting it somewhere else.

As for relevance, this is a rec.bicycles.tech, ".misc, *or* ".marketplace
question.

Paul, netcop for a day

In <442990$5qh@agate.berkeley.edu> pbrown@asparagus.berkeley.edu (Paul
Robert Brown) writes:
>
>
>Folks: a word about net do's and do not's.
>
>Unless it is something of supreme importance, do not cross-post it. It
is
>wasteful. Post your article somewhere relevant, and if you get no
>response, try posting it somewhere else.
>
>As for relevance, this is a rec.bicycles.tech, ".misc, *or*
".marketplace
>question.
>
>Paul, netcop for a day

Well Mr. "Net Cop for a day" Let me sayt that we are here to try to
help one another enhanse the sport of cycling and as such, the net is
well suited for it.  I am sorry if my postin the question offended your
personal space, but I had a question, and it is being answered by many
considerate people.  and I for one would like to thank them for the
assistance.

David Fields

In <4403qj$lqr@ixnews5.ix.netcom.com> padrino@ix.netcom.com (David
Fields ) writes:
>
>Okay, here is the deal....   I have beeen a fan of cycling for many
>years, and have logged my thousands of miles per year in "rat traps"
>for decades now.  My question is this. What clipless system will give
>me a safe attatchment to get the power I need, and the sped in release
>I neeed when riding in heavy traffic?   I require shoes I can still
>walk in (normally) while not on the bike as well.  I have ben looking
>into several Mountain specific setups, and have some idea of what
might
>work, but am interested in the input of those who actually use these
>items and not just sell them while using something altogether
>different.  Thank you for your time and consideration in helping with
>this small dillemma.
>
>David Fields
 The use of clipless pedals will improve your power transmission and
your ability to pedal in smooth circles. for more technical riding they
will allow you to do things with the rear of the bike that are simply
not possible with conventional systems , e.g. hopping up onto curbs
and over obstacles like railroad tracks. most mtb shoes have thicker
treads on the soles allowing easier( and quieter) walking. practice the
entry and release perched on your bike in a doorway to get used to the
feel. don't feel silly if you fall over at a light the first couple of
rides , we all have gone through it! good luck. :-)

In article <446o0g$6hq@nic.umass.edu> marcl@titan.oit.umass.edu (Marc Langston) writes:
in reply to query by padrino@ix.netcom.com [David Fields]

>Have any of you roadies had experience using both the "Look" type pedal
>and the "SPD" type?  If so, which do you prefer and why?  I'm aware that
>Look pedals are generally heavier, but have read that they are more
>comfortable (especially on long rides) because they have a larger
>platform.  Considering weight and size, it seems the Sampson Stratics
>pedal would be a good choice for those of us planning to go clipless.  Any
>words of advice on the Sampson pedal?

I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst feature is
that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real pain trying
to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until recently
commuted with rat traps & touring shoes. For noonhour training rides, I'd
rather have clipless. What to do? (See below.)

I recently got some Shimano 535 SPDs and MTB shoes that seem to fit the bill
quite well. The pedals can be adjusted for easy exit in hasty stops & they
have no "upside down."  You can also get useful work out of the pedal
before you are fully clipped in. I chose MTB shoes so I could walk without the
clip contacting pavement. The shoes are so stiff that I wouldn't call it
"normal" walking, but it beats the Look cleats.

George Oetzel

George Oetzel (goetzel@marie.sri.com) wrote:
: I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst feature is 
: that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real pain trying 
: to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until recently 
: commuted with rat traps & touring shoes. For noonhour training rides, I'd 
: rather have clipless. What to do? (See below.)

Look Moabs don't have an "upside down" either.  And they also have a 
single adjustment screw rather than two (one for each side) that the SPDs 
have.  I think it would be a pain to have two sides not adjusted 
identically -- half the time the clip feels fine, half the time it 
doesn't.  I would be very annoyed by that.

I have no experience with SPDs but I really like the Looks that I have.  
Also, the Moabs use "walking system" cleats.  Those with my Shimano shoes 
are very comfortable for walking (as well as riding).

--
===================================================
 Troy Hakala                         troy@cais.com
              http://hakala.csof.com
===================================================

sparks (hubbert@minerva.cis.yale.edu) wrote:
: Not all clipless pedals are created equel.  My bike came with the Tioga
[etc. deleted]

Have any of you roadies had experience using both the "Look" type pedal
and the "SPD" type?  If so, which do you prefer and why?  I'm aware that
Look pedals are generally heavier, but have read that they are more
comfortable (especially on long rides) because they have a larger
platform.  Considering weight and size, it seems the Sampson Stratics
pedal would be a good choice for those of us planning to go clipless.  Any
words of advice on the Sampson pedal?

Any helpful input would be greatly appreciated.

Marc

marcl@titan.oit.umass.edu (Marc Langston) wrote:
>sparks (hubbert@minerva.cis.yale.edu) wrote:
>: Not all clipless pedals are created equel.  My bike came with the Tioga
>[etc. deleted]
>
>Have any of you roadies had experience using both the "Look" type pedal
>and the "SPD" type?  If so, which do you prefer and why?

I got a set of the Look pedals in '86, I think.  I put plenty of miles on
those pedals, I rode my bike to school and work every day (about 49 miles
per day).  The Look pedals are more of a ski binding type of a deal.  They
are a bit bigger and only work on one side.  The pedals worked just fine
though, the only problems I had was getting into them quickly at a traffic
signal.  Since, the Look pedal only has one side to attach to it can be
difficult to get into it quickly.  This can be a hugh problem when you have
to start on a hill with traffic.  Also, the shoes I used (SIDI) had a very
stiff sole so pedal size really didn't seem to matter too much.

I recently got a new Mountain Bike that came with SPD pedals (ONZA's) and I
bought a pair of Shimano shoes to go with 'em.   There are a some great
things about the SPD setup like you can clip into either side.  This is
great for starting on a hill, which seems to happen a lot when moutain
biking.  It is also easier to pedal the bike when not clipped in, not that
you do this much but it is much easier than with the Looks I used to have.

Two problems I do have with my new setup.  First, the shoes have a tread on
them, this makes it harder to get into the pedal when compared to the road
setup.  Although, I am new at the SPD setup (two weeks) and I'm sure it
will be come as easy as the Looks with time.  The second problem relates
directly to the ONZA's.  To set the tension on the pedals you have a set of
elastomers which require you to take apart the pedal and reassemble it to
make them "Heavy" all the way to "Very Light".  A friend has a pair of the
Ritchey SPD's which you control the tension setting via a screw/spring
configuration.  IMHO this is a better way to go.

Another difference is the stiffness of the shoes my road shoes are much
stiffer that my Shimano's.  I guess this is because you don't have to hike
when on the road like you might do Mountain Biking.

Hope this helps,

Greg

In article <4474r7$d8s@zippy.cais.net>, troy@cais.cais.com (Troy Hakala) wrote:

>   George Oetzel (goetzel@marie.sri.com) wrote:
>   : I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst
feature is
>   : that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real
pain trying
>   : to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until
recently
>   : commuted with rat traps & touring shoes. For noonhour training rides, I'd
>   : rather have clipless. What to do? (See below.) (snipped out)
>
>   Look Moabs don't have an "upside down" either.  And they also have a
>   single adjustment screw rather than two (one for each side) that the SPDs
>   have.  I think it would be a pain to have two sides not adjusted
>   identically -- half the time the clip feels fine, half the time it
>   doesn't.  I would be very annoyed by that.
>

It's pretty easy to adjust the 535's so that both "sides" have the same
adjustment.  I had one pedal that was way different, the "top" from the
"bottom."  Just pretended as if I were adjusting ski bindings using my
shoe to get the adjustment right (without my foot it in).  Also, there is
a red adjustment "scale" on the backside of the pedal which shows how
tight they are.

(Geroge...did you get the Shimano shoes you and I "chatted" about?)




Judy Colwell
Judy@forsythe.stanford.edu

In <DFIJtn.5n2@twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com> James Carroll
<JamesÊrroll%NA%Contractors@Bangate.compaq.com> writes:
>
>  I agree with the guy who got the 535's for his road bike (and
>I'm also sending him this).  I got 535's primarily so that I
>didn't have to buy a second set of shoes to ride on the road.
>I have been extremely happy with their performance.  I feel
>that the float is more important than platform size to ensuring
>long-term comfort.  If I was to buy a road-bike only pedal I'd
>consider both the 535's and the Speedplay road pedals.  The
>speedplays offer unmatched float and low weight.  The don't
>work for me off-road, but for road use they might be pretty
>good.
>
>--
>James Carroll               |    Live to ride,
>jjcarr@electro.bpainc.com   |    Ride to live.
>
I second the vote for speedplay for the road.  The float really saves
my knees which are a problem from too many years of big gears and
crashing.  I really love them (I have two pair), but you really can't
walk in them.  When I commute, I take off my shoes to get from the
sidewalk (no in-building parking - a bummer) to the building.  Pretty
much a dedicated road peddle.  I've though about the Richey peddles for
commuting, but like using a single pair of shoes for all my bikes.

Neal
Washington, DC

>

Hmm, I have ridden my SPDs (A525) nearly 2 years & more than 10k miles &
have yet to experience any difficulty clipping or unclipping, whether
the cleats are worn or not. Yes, I put a dab of lub on the cleats or the
pedal now & again.

Stan Goldstein
goldst@u.washington.edu

On 27 Sep 1995, Larry Ricker wrote:

> rkaiser@primenet.com (Richard Kaiser) wrote:
>
> >SPDs have problems with un-clipping when the cleat wears (replace the cleat on
> >the first warning).  These are best for on and off road riders who want a
> >single cleat system.
>
> After a month or so with no trouble I began to have problems un-clipping my SPD setup.  I
> put a _little_ bike grease on the cleat and it worked fine again.  It may not be a
> universal solution, but it's worth a try.
>
>
>
>

100541.3703@compuserve.com (Peter Griffiths) wrote:
>padrino@ix.netcom.com (David Fields ) wrote:
>
>>Okay, here is the deal....   I have beeen a fan of cycling for many
>>years, and have logged my thousands of miles per year in "rat traps"
>>for decades now.  My question is this. What clipless system will give
>>me a safe attatchment to get the power I need, and the sped in release
>>I neeed when riding in heavy traffic?   I require shoes I can still
>I live in central London so have, I suspect, similar requirements to
>you relating to use in traffic:
>
>1. Shoes you can walk in
>2. Firm attachment when you want it
>3. Easy release when you don't
>4. Ability to use the pedal *without* being clipped in, e.g., when
>sneaking alongside traffic queues
>
>Number 1 rules out all of the pure road-racing systems (I used to use
>Look shoes with recessed cleats but they don't make them any more).
>Most of the MTB systems satisfy 2 & 3 but not 4, as soon as you lean
>on the pedal it clips.
>
>I use SPD 323's. Clip one side, rat-trap the other. I have had them a
>few months and they are excellent.
>
>
>Peter Griffiths
>100541.3703@compuserve.com
>
Try the Time MTB pedals.  The other side is almost flat - designed to fit
the shoe.  The pedal hangs down sideways when not in use. To clip in you
push forward with your foot and if you want to use the other side you pull
the top backward.  I have no trouble getting the side I want.

That takes care of 1,2 and 4, but some systems are a little easier with
number 3.

Bill

I put the Performance SPD compatible pedals on my touring bike this Spring
and have done over a thousand miles on them, including the 450 mile Ride
Around Wyoming.  I haven't had any problems with them so far, they seem to have
enough float that I can move my heels side to side enough to ward off
developing
knee pain.

nmw@ion.le.ac.uk (Nigel Wade,Physics,3568,,) wrote:
>
> In article <goetzel.56.00DE2DA0@marie.sri.com>,
> 	goetzel@marie.sri.com (George Oetzel) writes:
>
> >
> >I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst feature is
> >that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real pain trying
> >to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until recently
>
> >
> >George Oetzel
>
> I don't understand how so many people have problems with an "upside down"
> Look pedal.  Mine have no "upside down" - they are one sided.  The pedals
> are triangular and therefore always rotate and hang in the same position
> ready for clipping in.  As long as you always push your foot into the pedal
> from the rear, the front of the cleat engages the front of the pedal, then
> all you have to do is press.
>
> Unless the bearings are done up too tightly for them to rotate freely?
>
> --
> Nigel Wade, System Administrator, Ionospheric Physics Group,
>             University of Leicester, Leicester, LE1 7RH, UK
> E-mail :    nmw@ion.le.ac.uk
> Phone :     +44 (0)116 2523568, Fax : +44 (0)116 2523555
>
I just replaced my old Mavics (Looks relabeled, I think? at least they
look identical.) with new Look 256's.  The 256's are much easier to engage.

My older ones have good bearings.  I think the newer ones have more of
the weight in the heel so they fall back more easily.

Peter

In article <goetzel.56.00DE2DA0@marie.sri.com>,
	goetzel@marie.sri.com (George Oetzel) writes:

>
>I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst feature is
>that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real pain trying
>to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until recently

>
>George Oetzel

I don't understand how so many people have problems with an "upside down"
Look pedal.  Mine have no "upside down" - they are one sided.  The pedals
are triangular and therefore always rotate and hang in the same position
ready for clipping in.  As long as you always push your foot into the pedal
from the rear, the front of the cleat engages the front of the pedal, then
all you have to do is press.

Unless the bearings are done up too tightly for them to rotate freely?

--
Nigel Wade, System Administrator, Ionospheric Physics Group,
            University of Leicester, Leicester, LE1 7RH, UK
E-mail :    nmw@ion.le.ac.uk
Phone :     +44 (0)116 2523568, Fax : +44 (0)116 2523555

In article <4474r7$d8s@zippy.cais.net>, troy@cais.cais.com (Troy Hakala) wrote:

> George Oetzel (goetzel@marie.sri.com) wrote:
> : I like the Looks for long rides, but hate them in town. The worst
feature is
> : that they sometimes get upside down at a stop, which can be a real
pain trying
> : to get off to a good start in traffic. For this reason, I have until
recently
> : commuted with rat traps & touring shoes. For noonhour training rides, I'd
> : rather have clipless. What to do? (See below.)
>
> Look Moabs don't have an "upside down" either.  And they also have a
> single adjustment screw rather than two (one for each side) that the SPDs
> have.  I think it would be a pain to have two sides not adjusted
> identically -- half the time the clip feels fine, half the time it
> doesn't.  I would be very annoyed by that.

I commute on a late-model MTB with low-end Shimano SPD pedals and Shimano
shoes (part number SH-MO51). This combination is excellent, better even
than my older Look shoes/pedals. I would consider switching my road bike
as well.

I have never adjusted the pedal, it seems fine as it is. I have ridden it
off and on road. You can work the pedal without being fully engaged which
is very helpful in traffic.

-Jonathan.

--
 ______________________________________________________________________
| Jonathan M. Richardson, Ph.D.    |                                   |
| (Senior Research Scientist)      |    Phone: (617) 547-1122          |
| Science Research Laboratory, Inc.|    FAX: (617) 547-4104            |
| 15 Ward St.                      |    Email: jthan@world.std.com     |
| Somerville  MA  02143            |                                   |
 ______________________________________________________________________

Marc Kase (mkase@pt5001.pto.ford.com) wrote:
: The way they support both angular rotation and side to side flotation
: reduces the risk of knee problems.  I really believe that since I had
: chronic problems before switching to Time.  Also, cleat adjustment is
: much easier, since you don't have to adjust the angle of the cleats.

: Anyway, consider Time pedals.


Hmmm... The only time I've ever had knee pain on a bike was during the month
that I had Time pedals on the bike. YMMV.

--
Jerry Gardner          | Maintainer of the Large Format Digest
jgardner@netcom.com    | Send subscription requests to jgardner@netcom.com

Hey Mark, this is an old friend, Mark Hollinger. Are you still living in
Virginia? Since this is a bike forum- Did you find much floatation in the
SPD pedals and did they cause knee pain?

padrino@ix.netcom.com (David Fields ) wrote:

>Okay, here is the deal....   I have beeen a fan of cycling for many
>years, and have logged my thousands of miles per year in "rat traps"
>for decades now.  My question is this. What clipless system will give
>me a safe attatchment to get the power I need, and the sped in release
>I neeed when riding in heavy traffic?   I require shoes I can still
>walk in (normally) while not on the bike as well.  I have ben looking
>into several Mountain specific setups, and have some idea of what might
>work, but am interested in the input of those who actually use these
>items and not just sell them while using something altogether
>different.  Thank you for your time and consideration in helping with
>this small dillemma.

>David Fields

   For my money, shimano 747 or 535's are the only way to go.  Some
people like Onza's, but I have found them inadequate at keeping my
feet attached to the bike during hadcore riding.

i've got shimano 737s and i like em alot.  i've also got shimano shoes with
good tread so i can walk easily.  initially i was really shakey with the
clipless and felt like i was locked in all the time.  now i think they're great.
all it takes is practice clicking in and out.  the shimanos seem to work really
well.     good luck

|>    For my money, shimano 747 or 535's are the only way to go.  Some
|> people like Onza's, but I have found them inadequate at keeping my
|> feet attached to the bike during hadcore riding.
|>
|>
just plugged into shimano 747's and a pair of shimano m110's.

couldn't be happier. clicking in is a breeze. exiting the clips is a breeze.

road yesterday with the new gear on a new trail, the combo worked great.

although i will stay away from the trail as it was cluttered with boulders.

later
durant greenwood

costs:
shoes: $94
pedals: $150

So far I've had three (3) pair of Off-Road Pedals. A set of the original
SPD's that came out back in the late 80's (unfortunately stolen with the
bike I then owned). A set of 535's that I put on my new replacement bike
. and a pair of Onza HO's that I recently bought.

In summary I'd say buy Shimano. I've had "lots" of problems with the
Onza's. I even posted a query to this newsgroup recently looking for
others who've had problems with the Onza's .. I got lots of responses.

The other night on the way home on the Train a rider got on the Train
with his bike in tow .. and lo and behold he had Onza's on the Bike. I
asked him how he liked them. He said he didn't like them at all .. but it
must be him because he's contacted Onza (and the shop where he bought
them) a couple of times and he said the answer he got was that "nobody
else is having problems with them". There seemes to be some sort of
massive "denial" going on here. As I said earlier buy Shimano..

: In <46ibd6$aik@NNTP.MsState.Edu>, jhair@sunset.backbone.olemiss.edu (Joe Hair) writes:
: >   For my money, shimano 747 or 535's are the only way to go.  Some
: >people like Onza's, but I have found them inadequate at keeping my
: >feet attached to the bike during hadcore riding.

I've been using onZa's for a while now, and I like them alot.  I couldn't
stand them at first, but didn't give up since I had just paid for them.
they get better with use.  Why, I can't say.  But now I find them very
smooth, both clipping in and releasing.  They clip with a nice firm click
(I use the black elastomers) and come out very easily, but only when I
want them to, and rarely otherwise.  I find more control with them than I
do with 737 (mind you I have not tried 747's).  I have mine set to
release easily with an inward twist, although the cleats could just as
easily be turned the other way for an outward release.  Overall, I feel
that I got a very nice set of pedals for my money.
			...aaron

On 1 Nov 1995, Steven Todd Morozowich did thusly spew forth:

> am94ct@badger.ac.brocku.ca (AARON WILLIAM MILLER) wrote:
> >: In <46ibd6$aik@NNTP.MsState.Edu>, jhair@sunset.backbone.olemiss.edu (Joe Hair) writes:
> >: >   For my money, shimano 747 or 535's are the only way to go.  Some
> >: >people like Onza's, but I have found them inadequate at keeping my
> >: >feet attached to the bike during hadcore riding.

> I have found this also, and I have found out why.  The onza's have a
> simple mechanism for holding your feet in - therefore it is light -
> sounds good.  But, the pedal uses elastomers to apply the pressure on a
> medal plate that your *wedge* your cleat in between to lock in.  Over
> time this plate gets worn down - in my case before the cleat itself did.
> This is what causes the premature release that you and I, and probably
> many others experience.  Anyone who has problems with onzas should look
> at the plate-cleat interface for wear.  I have been told by bike shops
> that this plate can be ordered, but I went to a conventional pair
> (richeys) and now I smile.


whatever...onza are, for my money, the best...all pedals wear down (just
look at your exaulted ritcheys at the end of the year...) but onza's are
easier to replace, and BTW, mine are still working excellantly after over
two years of riding and racing with the same plates and cleats (well, the
cleats have to be replaced, but what the hell...two years...:)


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Wade Woodward (wade@uabcomm.comm.uab.edu) wrote:
: People around here seem to like the Ritchey Red's for the money.
: Any thoughts?
: Wado
I have had the Ritchey's since last march. They are my first
clipless pedals. I bought a pair of Nike Nuba's with them.
Both worked great, until the soul on the Nike's cracked. I
took the shoes back and the store said that they had had
3 pairs of Nuba's returned with the same problem. He gave
me a new pair of 95s. They have a little thicker soles and
of course I have to break em in again. Since getting the
new shoes I have trouble getting into the left pedal. It
looks to be that the thicker sole/deeper tread is the
problem, but I am sure I will figure out how to get it
to work as before. Overall I am very satisfied with
clipless in general, and with the ritcheys in particular.
They do take a while (about a month) to get used to. I
did just neighborhood rides for the first few days and
then moved up from there. I really love them for starting
out on steep technical climbs, and overall I feel more
power. They are way easier to get in and out of then
the dreaded flip over pedal and strap combo.
Pluses:
 Cheap and Lite ($89.99 at Colorado Cyclist 1 800-688-8600)
 Easy to get in and out of
Negs:
 Red paint wears off fast
 Tension loosens up from time to time (have to check about
  once a month)
 The hex for the shoes and the pedals was an odd size (not on
  my hex tool. Had to buy a new one with more sizes. You do
  need to have tools with cuz you have to adjust them alot at
  first to dial em in (mostly the cleat position on the shoe),
  and then to tighten them when they loosen up later on).

Hope this helps,
Peet
PS: I have about 700 miles on em.